. . Here are some installation pics for those who want to install their own cowling. I didn't put these in any particular order. I have a LOT of pictures.  Feel free to ask questions regarding any step.  If you have suggestions, drop me a line.

Click on the pic to see a larger pic


This is the finished product, ready to install.  All that is left to do is cut the opening for the Power Flow Exhaust.

Right Rear Baffle:  A few pics showing mock-up, finished part, and installed. The brown hose is for manifold pressure on this one. Don't put the MAP hose here. It makes adding oil difficult.  Move it inboard 4 inches.

The forward upper cowling hinge attaches to the lower cowling in a similar fashion to the original. I install nutplates to make installation and removal easier. Most, not all, of the time, when I have a customers upper cowling and nose bowla off, I install nutplates in their nosebowl.  Makes future R&R a lot easier.  This should have been done at the factory. Can you imagine how many man hours would have been saved by this step alone?

Here are pics of the baffles mocked-up on on a test engine and installed on my plane. Done correctly, the baffles lay over to the contour of the upper cowling. There is a minimum of pressure on the upper cowling under static conditions. The upper cowling closes easily.
The carb air duct when it's in initial mock-up and installed. Here you see the MAP line from the #3 cylinder. Again, don't do it this way. Put the bulkhead fitting on the other side of the duct. 

Here is a pic of the underside of the test plane, N1976T.  It's a '76 and didn't have the shocks. I removed the shocks from my plane in 2004 about a week after I bought the plane. Saves about 5 lbs on the nose.  A really good pilot will never need them.

Getting the cylinder baffles to lay over is easy.  There are more details in the project section on the main home page. Look for baffle installation.

The cabin air inlet.  Getting the seal around this is a pain-in-the-ass.

Under the engine I hold up the alternator cables with a cushioned ADEL clamp. There is an unused bolt hole on the bottom of the engine. Fabricate a stand-off to hold the cables in a comfortable position.


Fitting the cowling: This is a very time/labor intensive process.  Dave (AKA Composite Dave) and I working together fitted a cowling in 8 hours. I'm going to work out a system where that time is reduced considerably.

The centerline hinge is prefitted many times.  Make sure the front of the hinge lays down flat and that it's down far enough to let the upper cowling sit flush.  Most of the time, this part is easy.

Adjust the location of the rear mount so the upper cowling lays flush with the fuselage.

The angled piece comes from your old upper cowling hinge. It gets installed in the new hinge in the same way the old one did.


Fitting and drilling the upper cowling is a good days work.  Many trial and error, file and sand, fit, and repeat steps. Onece youcan tape it all in place and everything fits nice, drill the centerline holes. The rivets on the forward end need to be flush riveted on both sides . . . just like the original.


This is my trick cowl support rod setup.  I fabricate the block, install it and the add the angled aluminum piece to the upper cowling.  The angle aluminum gets flush riveted to the upper cowling.

The forward lower baffle must sit right against the cylinder. Here is a finished pic of both the left and right forward baffles on N119ST.

The forward portion of the lower cowling is held in place with blocks of wood and stir sticks. The gap between the cowling and the spinner backing plate is about 3/16 inches.  The bolt on the engine sticks through the left inlet.  I got lucky locating this one. A baffle seal can be installed to seal to the engine.

The trick to getting the baffle seal around the front (#1 and #2) baffles gets fitted in several steps. I keep the contact surface to about 3/4 inches using masking tape.

More pics of the same. It's important to make the seal fit the inlets correctly.

The baffle straps around the bottom of the cylinders gets snugged down with safety wire.  The kink in the safety wire acts as a spring.  This helps keep the safety wire from breaking.